Since the beginning of 2024, four reports have been made regarding hair straightening products. This is why the French Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health & Safety (Anses) now advises against using straightening products containing glyoxylic acid. We offer you an overview of the dangers of these products and the existing alternatives.
Glyoxylic acid, also called oxoacetic acid, is a chemical substance used as a smoothing agent in certain hair cosmetics. It is found at concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 10% in beauty products such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and creams for hair smoothing, particularly Brazilian hair straightening.
In a press release dated October 16, 2024, Anses, the DGCCRF, and the Directorate General of Health alerted hair salon professionals, cosmetic businesses, and users to the potential dangers of glyoxylic acid-based smoothing products.
This precautionary measure follows several reports of acute kidney failure linked to this type of smoothing product since the beginning of 2024.
Pending more in-depth analysis conclusions by the end of the year, Anses advises against using these products. It has also initiated a procedure to amend European regulations and better regulate the use of this substance in cosmetics. For now, glyoxylic acid is not regulated in the European Union.
Several cases of kidney failure have been reported after exposure to glyoxylic acid. The first symptoms appear a few hours after exposure to this product, notably through Brazilian hair straightening.
Signs of kidney failure include:
• abdominal and/or lower back pain.
• nausea and vomiting.
Note: one should also beware of glycolic acid, another very common ingredient in anti-aging or acne creams, which can transform into glyoxylic acid when metabolized by the body.
If you experience the symptoms described earlier after having a hair straightening treatment, you should consult a doctor immediately or call a poison control center.
When you call, remember to mention that you have been in contact with a straightening product likely containing glyoxylic acid.
Here are the poison control center numbers in France:
• in Angers: 02 41 48 21 21.
• in Bordeaux: 05 56 96 40 80.
• in Lille: 08 00 59 59 59.
• in Lyon: 04 72 11 69 11.
• in Marseille: 04 91 75 25 25.
• in Nancy: 03 83 22 50 50.
• in Paris: 01 40 05 48 48.
• in Toulouse: 05 61 77 74 47.
According to Anses, glyoxylic acid is therefore a cosmetic ingredient to avoid as it is potentially toxic to the kidneys. It is important to take this warning seriously because the chemicals in hair care products are absorbed by the scalp and easily enter the bloodstream.
To avoid exposure to potentially harmful ingredients, such as allergens, endocrine disruptors, or irritating substances, it is advisable to choose:
• a shampoo without sulfates or parabens with as few ingredients as possible.
• a conditioner or hair mask based on vegetable oils.
• a natural hair dye made from plant-based ingredients, to be applied to your hair after a detox of several weeks if you are used to chemical dyes.
Finally, if you are looking for a rinse product to make your hair shine, simply try the following natural tip. Dilute a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar in a bottle of water and use this mixture for the final rinse, after your hair mask or conditioner.
Author Audrey on 28 March 2024
Health and Beauty : Care and Beauty
Author Audrey on 02 October 2023
Health and Beauty : Care and Beauty