Kojic Acid: Miracle Cosmetic Active Or Risky Ingredient?

A beauty active still little known in France, kojic acid is one of the secrets of Korean women for having perfectly smooth skin. This ingredient, popularized by the wave of K-beauty around the world, is said to have an almost magical effect in erasing skin pores. Unfortunately, this acid is also a controversial substance due to the danger it poses. We offer to review the effects, limitations, and risks of this cosmetic active in 5 questions.

1- What is kojic acid?

Kojic acid is a natural-origin cosmetic active. It is naturally produced by certain fungi.

This substance is also a by-product of the fermentation of certain Asian foods, such as soybean paste, soy sauce, and rice wine.

Still little known in France, this cosmetic active is starting to appear in creams, lotions, soaps, and face serums. It is reputed to have almost miraculous effectiveness in reducing dark spots and diminishing enlarged pores.

2- What are the benefits of kojic acid for the skin?

Kojic acid has antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties, which are beneficial for combating the bacteria responsible for acne and fungi that cause certain skin diseases.

In skincare products, it is primarily used as a brightening agent to reduce pigmentation spots such as dark spots, certain types of scars, and the effects of sun exposure.

This acid also has a mild antioxidant effect that helps counteract free radicals caused by UV rays and pollution. But above all, this ingredient, beloved by Asians, is sometimes touted as a miracle agent for fighting enlarged pores and achieving a perfect complexion...

3- Why is kojic acid controversial?

With its magical effect on the complexion, kojic acid is starting to make waves among beauty enthusiasts in France and around the world. You probably already know this name if you are one of those who keep an eye out for the latest Korean beauty or K-beauty trends and innovations...

But beware! This plant-based or synthetic active ingredient is controversial. Some animal studies have shown that this ingredient can be toxic at high concentrations. In European regulations, it is allowed in finished cosmetic products at concentrations limited to a maximum of 1%.

Furthermore, the European Scientific Committee recently issued an opinion proposing to reduce the recommended maximum concentration to 0.7% of the final product.

4- What are the health risks of kojic acid?

Even though kojic acid can be used in organic beauty products under the COSMOS standard, it is not without health risks, to the extent that its use in cosmetics has been banned in Japan.

This ingredient is suspected of being an endocrine disruptor and part of carcinogenic and mutagenic substances.

But more importantly, this acid can be irritating to the skin and allergenic. One of its most common side effects is contact dermatitis, especially in people with sensitive skin.

This allergic reaction can manifest as skin warming, itching, or rashes. This is why kojic acid is not recommended for people suffering from certain skin problems and allergies.

5- How to properly use kojic acid-based cosmetics?

For anyone who wants to test cosmetics containing kojic acid, certain precautions are necessary:

• At the time of purchase, check that the product contains a concentration of kojic acid below 1%, or even 0.7% for those with sensitive skin.

• Before the first use, perform a skin allergy test in the crook of your elbow to check your tolerance to this cosmetic ingredient.

• Do not use beauty products containing this ingredient before sun exposure. This controversial active is suspected of increasing the skin's sensitivity to UV rays...

Note: if you apply products containing this acid on your face, you must then use a sunscreen with an SPF 50 rating and wear a hat to protect yourself from the sun, as most Asian women do.